2008 Itinerary
2008 - what does the future hold?
Tokyo / Kyoto / Hokkaido
A 10-14 day trip is in order to finally explore one of my favorite cuisines. My friends call me a sushi snob, and I’ve eaten at many of the important Japanese restaurants in this country, but my knowledge of Japanese cuisine is certainly at a nascent stage.
Some questions / topics I hope to explore:
Just how good is Japanese sushi? And the quality of their raw fish?
I’ve limited myself in the past year to only eating at America’s best sushi/sashimi restaurants - Urasawa, Sawa, Kuruma Zushi, and Sushi Yasuda (no Masa this past year.) How does the quality of Sawa and Kuruma’s fish compare to Tokyo’s best? Is this magic of a Sushi Yasuda nigiri commonplace in the back alleys of Tokyo? Can Urasawa’s reverence for food and ingredient place among the best of Japan? When I discuss America’s best places, the common response is always “go to Japan.” The subtext of that comment often is, at worst, the continuing Japanese fetish found in America; and, at best, a truly informed point of view. Where does my reality lie?
How are Western fine dining trends manifesting themselves in Japanese cuisine?
I won’t be qualified to answer this question definitively but how, if at all, have the Spanish influenced traditional Japanese techniques in places like Ryu-gin? And, before them, how much French technique has infiltrated the best restaurants?
What do these mythical ingredients taste like?
We Americans, as said above, certainly have a fetish for the foreign; so much so, that the tales of some ingredients take on mythical properties. What does a sliver of A12-5 Kobe beef taste like? How sweet and creamy is fresh Hokkaido sea urchin? How much better does high-end toro taste in Japan, since it is theoretically fresher?
Can I get into the very best places?
Despite the arrival of the Michelin guide in Tokyo, the city’s best restaurants are off-limits to the gajin. Some restaurants, even a three star or two, have multiple locations where the original, and usually best, are by referral only. And, from what I hear, they don’t take kindly to strangers. Can I crack the code?
Finally, where should I eat?
My initial research has unearthed these selections:
- Sukiyabashi Jiro (Tokyo) - three-star sushi with two locations. The trick is getting into Ginza, and not Roppongi.
- Hamadaya (Tokyo) - 90 year old restaurant serving seasonal foods.
- Ryugin (Tokyo) - experimental Japanese with nods to Mugaritz.
- Kyubey (Tokyo) - one-star sushi that is purported to be nearly as good as Sukiyabashi.
- Rakutei (Tokyo) - no stars but potentially a benchmark for tempura.
- Oshima (Tokyo) - one of the main places to go for beef in Tokyo.
- Kozue (Tokyo) - modern kaseiki.
- Kikunoi (Kyoto) - best kaseiki in Kyoto?
London / Paris / Brittany / Copenhagen
What would a year be without a trip to Paris? Despite the Fed’s best attempt to de-value our dollar, I must visit Europe. The main purpose of this jaunt is to visit two restaurants - Noma and Roellinger. Both restaurants have captured my imagination - a potentially dangerous thing in the past.
- The Sportsman (UK) - a man and a woman, their pub, and their attempt to create everything they serve, including the butter and salt. See pictures of a wonderful meal here.
- Le Meurice (Paris) - a focus on seafood and iodization. Read the Luxeat review.
- Roellinger (Brittany) - a story of the sea. Read the Julotlespinceaux review.
- Noma (Copenhagen) - verygoodfood has written about too many great meals.
New York
My excitement with New York dining has declined but I would like to try a few meals over the year.
- Bouley - I would like to finally re-visit this restaurant and see how it rates compared to my last impressive visit.
- Rosanjin - there’s a dearth of reviews but it will be interesting to compare this to Urasawa, Sugiyama, and my meals from the fore-mentioned Japan trip. Read the CountryEpicure review.
- Masa - it’s insanely expensive but I would like to re-try it.
- Tailor - I recently ate here, sans notes and camera, but the food measured up to WD-50 on a good day. I would like to do a proper review.
- Momofuku Ko - both Momofuku restaurants are favorites of mine and it will be interesting to see how it translates to a more ambitious menu.
California
My goal for the base of operations is to try a few other higher-end places:
- Aqua - does it really warrant two Michelin stars?
- Marinus - Michelin overlooked the restaurant but the chef has a commitment to very local ingredients.
- Auberge du Soleil - chef Robert Curry has an impressive resume.
- And a few Manresa, Ubuntu, Quince, and Urasawa visits.
The Rest of America
There are a few places I just need to try:
- McCrady’s (Charleston)
- Komi (DC)
- Blue Stem (Kansas City)
- re-visit
- Alinea
It’s a financially ambitious schedule that I hope to keep. If you have further suggestions, please provide them in the comments.
- chuck
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Graham Watson said,
January 17, 2007 @ 6:44 am
I see you are coming to Seattle. As I said in a post to you on one of the Porsche boards, you MUST visit the Herb Farm. http://herbfarm.com
Graham
DJsunkid said,
January 21, 2007 @ 6:13 pm
What about Susur in Toronto?
christian said,
January 22, 2007 @ 9:41 pm
Nope, the quality of food you want you won’t find at the herb Farm. I’ve eaten there and cooked there.
You are right on with Mistral and lampreia.
Andrew Robertson said,
January 25, 2007 @ 9:49 am
I think when in Paris you have to try the restaurant at the Hotel Meurice. I believe this is scheduled for three star status in the new Michelin. Having lunch there recently, I have to say this was stellar. L’Astrance obviously is also right up there. Have you tried Helène Darroze in the rue d’Assas. I have had so many negative comments about this place that we never have tried (despite living less than 5 minutes walk away). Any opions ?
Administrator said,
January 26, 2007 @ 8:37 pm
Andrew, Meurice was planned for the Feb trip but the restaurant happens to be closed during the time I’ll be there (same as L’Ambrosie.) I haven’t tried Darroze.
Administrator said,
January 26, 2007 @ 8:38 pm
DJsunkid, my friend has been to Susur and he says it’s completely overhyped. Considering we generally agree, I’ll skip Susur until I hear better things.
Adrian said,
April 1, 2007 @ 10:28 pm
Why not Toque! in Montreal. It’s really the only restaurant in the city (as much as I love Chasse et Peche) that can claim to serve a world class meal. It’s also probably the best expression of the local products in the city. Brunoise is a great neighbourhood restaurant and CC&P is a wonderful experience, but Toque! is the culinary class of the city.
Vince said,
April 5, 2007 @ 12:13 am
If you come to Seattle, you should give Mashiko a whirl. I know tastingmenu ripped it, and it can be a troubling restaurant, but the highs are higher than Nishino and if you know the right strategy (go later (8 or 9), on a Wednesday or Thursday, sit at the bar, order omakase), your chances of a good experience improve greatly.
Tom Gandey said,
April 5, 2007 @ 7:06 am
Adrian,
No offense, but there isn’t a restaurant in Montreal that serves a world class meal. No one in the city will pay for it… Plenty of world class ingredients there, no world class food. Based on my one meal at Toque when Laprise was on St. Denis, I’m not going back and certainly won’t be bringing Chuck. Do you know of some special handshake that would actually attain an edible Toque meal? Please do tell. I hear of all these apparently amazing ingredients that Normand uses, but I have yet to see anything even remotely world class other than his cured foie gras come out of that kitchen. Every restaurant has an off night, but my one meal there was downright unacceptable.
DJSunKid,
Unless Chuck does something very heinous, I will not subject him to Susur. That place is all about scene and nothing that any experienced foodie would be remotely interested in. There is one choice for “fine dining” in Toronto and that is Splendido, nothing else comes close unless you include places like Eigensinn and Kaji which aren’t really in the city.
Adrian said,
April 10, 2007 @ 8:49 pm
Vince,
I don’t believe that there’s a special handshake you need to get a great meal at Toque. At least, I didn’t use one. I never was at the St. Denis location, but I would rate my experience at the new premises very highly. Certainly the restaurant has been more acclaimed post-move. For comparison, my experience at Toque was better than what I’ve had at Cityzen and Citronelle in DC (where I currently reside). The foie is the best I’ve ever had, but sea urchin, venison, and other dishes also impressed. My issue with the restaurant was the service, which was a few steps below the food. I do agree with your general assesment of Montreal - there is not enough money to sustain more than one or two really high end restaurants at once. Perhaps it’s time to give Toque another chance. After all, if they served an anglo from Toronto a great meal it must be possible to get one there.
stratis said,
May 20, 2007 @ 5:17 pm
hi,
i see you are planning Michel Bras again….
cant understand why even though you seem like doing this seriously, and i have to say you are doing a great job!!, you believe that michel Bras is ok, i found it unacceptable, out of season, oversalted, overpriced for the absolute mediocrity that he is…
Louis Maldonado said,
June 2, 2007 @ 5:54 pm
If you have time and are in san francisco with no where to eat, come to Cortez Restaurant, let me know and I will set it up, thanks
alexandra miro said,
July 16, 2007 @ 10:22 am
Just read with interest your review on Cordellian Bages. I ate there last night and had mixed feelings. Despite eating here in the summer many of the courses we had were the same as the ones listed on your site.
If you are going to Mugaritz this year then I strongly recommend that you also go to Arzak
Great site btw
ChuckEats said,
July 16, 2007 @ 4:38 pm
Alexandra, we visited Arzak last year but left unimpressed with the food (the wine is a completely different story.) There’s a review in the San Sebastian section.
I saw the Marx cook book the other day at La Sanctuaire (SF) and just chuckled to myself.
richard spring said,
August 19, 2007 @ 12:37 pm
Japanese friends took me to Tokyo - Inakaya (west) (Robatayaki). 3405-9866.
Japanese country-style dining raised to an artform. Dinner around Y10,000 per person. [feedback] real special.
Unique. great food. presentation. fun. packed. pictures on my web site.
also L’Atelier
Great search site:
http://www.bento.com/ra-ropp.html
Cindy Curran said,
October 30, 2007 @ 12:55 am
Chuck,
We met at Iberia Restaurant, I was the bartender last time you were in with Frank. I see you are visiting NYC soon, I will be there this weekend and was wondering if our dates might overlap at all? I would love to reciprocate and buy you a glass of wine. If not, hope to see you soon to talk more food.
Thanks
Cindy
Mitch Lienhard said,
November 3, 2007 @ 3:51 am
Chuck I see in your Oct.-Dec. itinerary you’ll be in Charleston, I invite you to eat at The Ocean Room on Kiawah Island, a short drive from downtown. Its a AAA Five Diamond, Mobil Four Star restuarant. You also won’t find better lodging in the area. I’m one of the cooks that would be preparing your meal. I look forward to hearing from you,
Sincerely,
Mitch
james said,
January 3, 2008 @ 10:50 am
drop me a line if you come to NL. Can take you around markets and the like in Amsterdam.
Great blog….totally distracted me from what i shoulda been doing…:)
Joaquin said,
March 5, 2008 @ 1:11 am
Chuck,
When in Charleston, check out SNOB (slightly north of broad) - excellent shrimp and grits!
In DC try Indibleu - a little overpriced but the food is excellent.
And try to make it out to the OId Pro in Palo Alto this Thursday night for excellent bar food served American style.
-Joaquin
GKang said,
March 16, 2008 @ 4:05 am
Just discovered your site, its great. Its kinda weak that you dont have a ton of Bay area reviews. Have you been to Meadowood lately? What about Campton place post Humm? Rubicon? Masa’s, Coi, Cyrus? Stop going to Quince, that place is not awesome. Simple to a fault. ugly plates, and worst cheese cart in san fran. The best thing about quince are the little breads saturated with olive oil.
ChuckEats said,
March 16, 2008 @ 8:46 pm
hi Gkang, i’ve got reviews for Rubicon, Cyrus, and Coi on the site. i never have to return to Rubicon; i could be convinced to try Cyrus again but it’s highly over-rated; and only does Coi have the potential to be something great. the rest of the ‘high-end’ restaurants here are disappointing when compared to others nation- and international-wide.
Jim said,
April 22, 2008 @ 6:57 pm
Try and make room for Midori Sushi when you’re in Tokyo - and though they have Tokyo branches now, make the trip out to the original shops (across the street from one another) in Umegaoka, which is a short trip west of Tokyo on the Odakyu Line - Like going from Manhattan to Hoboken, but maybe a little farther. You’ll be glad you made the trip - especially if you try the Awabe (abalone) Steak.
And for simple but athentic yakitori (and a great drinking scene), go to one of the two branches of Iseya, in Kichijoji (also a western suburb of Tokyo).
JC said,
May 4, 2008 @ 3:31 pm
First time posting, but I thought I’d let you know that Chef René Redzepi of noma is going to be visiting Manresa soon…later this month I think? (I can’t remember, but I’m sure you can email him or someone at Manresa and find out.) Perhaps you can go there and get a sample of his cooking before your trip to Europe.
ChuckEats said,
May 5, 2008 @ 5:23 pm
JC, yes, a reservation has been booked - I’m excited to try out Redzepi’s food.